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![]() ![]() _South Sea Pearl _12mm AAA Grade _From Northern Australia _Pearl Guide |
Pearls come in many different colors, depending on the variety. The most popular pearls are Akoya pearls, which originate either from Japan or China. Akoya pearls occur naturally in white, and are sometimes treated to look black, or a very dark blue. Consistently round shape and “mirror like” luster distinguish Akoya pearls. The “mirror like” luster refers to how they reflect your image back to you. Akoya pearls are bead nucleated, which accounts for their round shape and sharp luster. In today’s pearl market, smaller sized Akoya pearls are typically farmed in China, whereas larger sized Akoya pearls are farmed in Japan. Most people associate Akoya pearls with Japan. Akoya pearls are the most popular saltwater pearls. Exotic pearls include White South Sea and Golden South Sea. White South Sea pearls are usually from the western coast of Australia. Golden South Sea pearls originate from the Philippines and Indonesia. Exotic pearls are known for their large size and their scarcity. These pearls range from 8-20mm, whereas most other pearls do not grow larger than 14mm. The other popular kind of saltwater pearls are Tahitian pearls, commonly known as “black pearls.” These pearls come from Tahiti and French Polynesia. They range in color from green to blue, red, gold and black. Introduced to the market in mid-1900, these pearls continue growing in popularity and prestige. The most abundant pearl variety is Freshwater pearls. This is because Freshwater pearls come from mussels, and each mussel produces up to 50 pearls. (All other pearl varieties come from saltwater oysters, which produce one to three pearls per oyster). Originally Freshwater pearls were regarded as being of lower value due to having an off round or “potato” like shape. However, with advances in pearl technology, Freshwater pearls have gained a more prominent position amongst higher quality pearl families. In general, no Freshwater pearl will be perfectly round. This is because they are nucleated with small pieces of tissue, as opposed to round beads. Freshwater pearls are still cultured, however, which is one of the main misconceptions about pearls. Almost all pearls are cultured. Unless they are explicitly called “natural pearls,” buyers should assume that the pearls are cultured. Freshwater pearls are most distinct because they naturally occur in a variety of colors: white, peach, pink, purple, and even sometimes a periwinkle blue. Like Akoya pearls, Freshwater pearls are commonly dyed black, which creates an effect similar to oil on pavement; i.e. a rainbow of color coats a dark background. Freshwater pearls are usually farmed in China. Natural pearls are not as commonly used in jewelry and are much different from cultured pearl jewelry. Natural pearls are almost always used in single-pearl jewelry pieces. The most common natural pearls are Penn, Abalone, Conch, and Oyster. All natural pearls are very expensive due to their rare occurrence. Pearls are typically most valuable when they are rounder. Other significant value factors include luster, color, surface quality, size, and nacre thickness. If the pearls are strung on a strand, they need to be expertly matched so that the pearls look consistent. This takes the trained eye of a pearl professional and can also affect the value of a strand of pearls. Although typically pearls are round, they can also be dropped shaped, baroque, semi-round, or freeform. Many of the more freely shaped pearls are used for pendants or rings that accentuate the unique shape.. There is is no standard grading system for pearls. This makes purchasing pearls somewhat of a challenge for a novice. Most companies follow the AAA system, or a variation of. The most important thing customers should be aware of is the description behind whatever grade their pearl is given. Be sure to read the fine print. The percentage of blemishing is a good indicator of the quality. Highest quality pearls should be 95-99% blemish free. There is no such thing as a “perfect” pearl and buyers should not expect to find one. Although pearls are characterized by body color, they also have an “overtone.” Overtone is the word used to describe the glint of a pearl in various lighting. Overtones are most apparent in saltwater pearls. Although Freshwater pearls have an overtone, it is not as prominent or exact as those found in saltwater pearls. White Akoya pearls will have overtones in rose, cream and silver. Tahitian pearls can have an overtone of almost every color. Golden South Sea pearls will have gold body color with silver, green or rose overtones. White South Sea pearls, like Akoya pearls, have overtones in silver, rose and ivory. Choosing an overtone will depend on the skin color of the recipient. Generally a combination of rose and silver is the most sought after overtone for white pearls. There are literally hundreds of varieties of pearls. Due to the abundant discoveries, it is often times hard to consolidate these International findings of pearl species into a decisive list. Perhaps the most comprehensive research on pearl varieties can be found in German expert Elisabeth Strack’s book, Pearls. One of the best online resource for pearl information is www.pearl-guide.com. This forum has information on every aspect of pearls, including pearl history and pearl farming. USES VARIETIES RECOMMENDED BOOKS Pearls
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